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Alladin's Cave or What ?

 

by : Mehru Jaffer 

It is something like entering into the fabled cave of Ali Baba where forty thieves had piled up camel loads of loot from the floor all the way upto the ceiling. But unlike the treasure cave of the Arabian Nights no cabalistic words like "Open O Samsam" is required here to stand in the midst of the mounds and mounds of all the glitter and glimmer. 

For the portals of the Pasar Batu Aji and Batu Permata in the traditional Rawa Bening markets of Jakarta's eastern district of Jatinegara are forever wide open for one and all, to wander around till weary, marvelling not only at the precious gemstones but also at hundreds of charms and talisman that promise to bring fame and fortune to the buyer.   

Ofcourse he knows that as a good Muslim it is a contradiction to be selling charms and mantras. But for Haji Samlawi that is the only way that he knows to earn a livelihood. The 54 year old Madurese came to Jakarta in 1975 and started peddling semi-precious stones and sea shells that he had brought back from his home-island, on the roadside here. "We are Muslim but our traditions date back to thousands of years before Islam and it is difficult to give up what our ancestors told us is also beneficial to us," explains Pak Haji. 

Today the formally uneducated salesman takes orders from three kiosks owned jointly by his very businesslike wife and son, supplying gemstones and amulets by post or in person to customers around the country. No, he does not claim to have any mystical powers himself. He stocks only those goods that his customers ask for from onyx to semi-precious stones known as batu cincin.    

Hajah Mahlamah also from Madura does not like to wear jewels herself but enjoys selling them to others, especially to Arab and American customers. Her neighbour Adriansyah,19  is a high school graduate and specialises in rolls of akar bahar, a seeweed that is said to cure rheumatism. He sits surrounded by sun-dried private parts of crocodiles which when pickled in alchohol serve as an aphrodisiac. Apart from bales full of synthetic gemstones in every colour of the rainbow and embedded in stainless steel or brass finger rings, the youngman also sells curled up tails of a fish that makes a lethal whip used by people to deal with unknown enemies. 

His stall, only one of 200 in the marketplace apart from 100 kiosks, is also piled up with stocks of the blind bamboo, and ribs of mermaids. Adriansyah cannot think of a better job for himself than his present one. 

Come the weekend and 22 year old Iing brings out the best American diamonds he has in stock.  For it is mostly on Saturdays and Sundays that the big buyers appear. For their personal adornment the Chinese like more traditional patterns on their ring and prefer gems like the garnet, garut or sapphires from Sri Lanka. The Arab and native Indonesian customers take home with them jewellery made from silver and studded with diamonds from America. 

Before the monetary crisis Iing recalls earning upto Rp 50,000 on a lucky day but these days he is happy when he can call it a day with as little as Rp 20,000 in his pocket. The price of stones varies from Rp 2000 for a multi-coloured agate from Kalimantan to an American diamond worth even Rp 200,000 or more. A little-finger nail sized virus, the colour of peacock feathers from Sukabumi can be bought for Rp 25,000. 

"By itself a stone is meaningless. It is the way it is cut and adorned is what enhances its value," informs Ick Murcholik,27 who prefers for himself the yellow coloured topaz that is rarely available in Indonesia. He is not sure whether the possession of certain stones will bring luck to people. However in The Autobiography of a Yogi by Paramahansa Yogananda, it is mentioned that faultless gems of not less than two carats when worn in contact with the skin are most beneficial for astrological purposes. 

"Gems are similar to a lightning rod. They create, what is in effect, a protective field around the body, regulating which cosmic forces are absorbed by the body. And in time, the proper gemstones, if kept in contact with the skin, can bring about changes in the mind and body," the book says. 

Moni, a young housewife and mother of two was told by her grandmother to wear a topaz studded finger ring that touched her skin if she wanted to marry a good man. She wore the ring all the time till she got married nearly a decade ago and now she adorns it only when she feels like it. Her favourite stone is opal really, a gem that ancient Romans ranked second only to the precious emerald. A thumbnail sized opal which she wears as a pendant cost her about half a million rupiah. 

Ann who was too shy to give her real name wears a yellow sapphire on her index finger as suggested by an astrologer. According to ancient believes the stars in their constant movements throughout the heavens are forever emitting both positive and negative magnetic vibrations and this influences each person both for good and for ill. 

Silky, an expatriot was asked by his cousin Nirmala who is well known in India for her psychic powers to wear a pearl. "On my last trip home, Nirmala felt that I was restless and the pearl would calm me down," he says. Silky sees no reason to disbelieve his cousin who is constantly consulted by thousands of people around the world. He is now on the look out for a silver ring studded with a pearl for himself. 

In Ayurvedic Healing, the American doctor David Frawley mentions that the organic stone pearl is good for promoting body fluids and the blood, nourishing the body tissues and the nerves. "Pearl strengthens the female reproductive system, improves fertility and calms the emotions," says Dr.Frawley. Asked if he wore the gorgeous, melati green stone on his index finger for attracting better business, !7 year old salesman Amin replied that he simply likes the look of the ring. But if it also brings him luck, he would not mind that. 

It was perhaps the touch of the wrong stone then that brought upon this reporter the thunderous wrath of a fellow visitor to the colourful marketplace. "You taking photos of me? You photo me, trouble for you. I check camera...No photo OK?" he threatened as if stepping straight out of the pages of the tales from A Thousand and One Nights.
 

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Last modified:
January 08, 2001